Hats for Smart Wear

Towards 1927 smart suits were worn by women and "misses" alike. The world started a lasting love affair with crisp white shirts, also called overblouses in the Twenties as they were not always tucked into the skirts but had a band around the hips to round off the design. The blouses could be made from chiffon, a material called radium silk, and popular English broadcloth! Now why does that last material sound so strong and practical?

Feathers and porcupine quils were found on hats throughout the Twenties and I decided to use a Berti Borelli type of design for my belle with the unexposed hair, the black parts being part of the hat design and not hair! And, yes, you can buy vintage style hats on E-Bay today! And one last thought, one can still spot the Victorian bonnet in the style!

The Little Straw Boater

Now is this true or not: we had our fill of a couple of ridiculous hats this week, on viewing and reviewing the Royal Wedding? What was true of the previous centuries, is true today, and that is that most feathers look better on the original bird than on a lady's hat!

In the Twenties there were actual publicity and movements to stop the use of 'bits of animal or bird', like those bound bundles of feathers or porcupine quills which were perched on the side of hats. Worse were the ostrich feathers which could be seen bobbing way above the heads of most of the males in a room!

So here is something innocent and refreshing, the straw boater! These hats became popular once again when women gained their freedom of dress in the Twenties. What could be more ideal to wear for summer picnic lunches, drives in open Model T Fords, playing golf or tennis, hiking or cycling?

Sweet Spring Rain

A little bit of rain, nothing serious! My sweet blonde belle's umbrella is more for the show of it! To sing her praises, I chose this extract from a17th century poem. It shows that femininity is very enduring!

"With solace and gladness,

Much mirth and no madness,

All good and no badness,

So joyously,

So maidenly,

So womanly,

Her demeaning

In every thing;

Far, far passing

That I can endite

Or suffice to write......." from To Mistress Margaret Hussey by J.Skelton

Swimwear Revolution!

Covered from head to toe, our great-great grandmothers were allowed to "take to the water"! The early Twenties brought some light relief with constructions called tank suits. The legs were naked but some knee-high stockings were still worn. It was such a break-through, because soon a very sensible swimming costume was developed. The lines look good even today because there was a timeless elegance about them. I love Glamour Daze, a blog about vintage fashion. Here is a short illustrated history of vintage swimwear!

Open backs appeared in fashion once the short dresses of 1925 were no longer "shocking" and another area of daring had to be developed. As we know, that is a trend that sells a lot of fashion to this very day in our "who-will-be-first-to-wear-it" culture!

The development of swimwear was the result of the new liberty women experienced. I suppose that once they had the vote, they felt free to drive cars and take part in sport! In my painting, my little belle celebrates summer at a quiet and discreet locality, another favourite pastime of the Twenties.

180 x 180mm (10 x 10)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

The Barrel Line

Utility clothes worn by women during World War I, was extremely drab. Wartime fashion gave us a heavy wide skirt in rough material, not a pretty button in sight!

At last in 1919 at the end of the war this skirt made way for 'the barrel line'. Dresses were now tubular with the anatomy of women quite suppressed. No shape and no waist were shown. If you did not have a boyish built, a 'flattener' was needed. The skirts of these dresses ballooned inwards near the ankles to show for the first time some well-turned ankles in femine shoes to cleverly make up for the absence of daring near the neckline!

In my painting, I exaggerated the length of the barrel line, the way it is often done on pattern packets. The soft detail of the belt shows off the dropped waistline which is the most outstanding characteristic of fashion from 1919 to well into the Twenties. The cloth is soft and silky and pastel-coloured.

Acrylic on Stretched Canvas

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

The Little Black Dress # 2

180 x 180mm (18 x 18 cm)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

AVAILABLE in South Africa from January 2011

Price R400 + R50 Postage and Packaging

Wherever you go, however you celebrate this holiday season, have a wonderful time! Enjoy and keep well!

I have loved starting this blog and am full of ideas for 2011. I will be full-out busy with family commitments and travel, but on my bedside table and travel bag I have a stack of books on Art Deco, De Lempicka and fashion history. Already waiting in my studio are some wonderful paints I found: a very pale blue and quite a range of purple hues! It is going to be GREAT FUN for me to pursue this course.

For the final image of this year, 'the little black dress' and 'a timeless look'. The name of my painting is: "The Night is Still Young"

The Little Black Dress #1

180 x 180mm (18 x 18 cm)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

SOLD

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

What is fondly known as 'the little black dress' was first introduced by the amazingly talented and original Coco Chanel, who emerged as the voice of fashion in the Twenties. Early on in her career she introduced a short, undecorated black dress for evening or cocktail wear. Even today it is considered essential that a lady should own at least one of these practical items of clothing that can be dressed up or down. It still plays a part in fashionable wardrobes after 90 years.

I made two paintings to commemorate an item that is timeless, both vintage and modern!

This is the first painting and is called: 'Le Dance'.

Cool, cooler, coolest!

180 x 180mm (18 x 18 cm)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

AVAILABLE in South Africa from January 2011

Price R400 + R50 Postage and Packaging

It should be remembered that 1918 not only saw the end of the war, but also the end of clothing restrictions durable textiles. The shorter tube-shaped dresses, silky materials and lace, and light pastel colours during the Twenties gave such a new feeling of freedom of movement.

I had to giggle a bit when I read how v-necks and boat-necks were denounced by one and all. The press and the pulpit were even involved in campaigns against it! But fashion was persistent and everyone got used to "pneumonia necklines" which were supposedly bad for the health!

One of the nicest developments was the easiness of making these dresses. With a sewing machine and pattern, lovely clothes could be made by one and all. Unlike the previous century, girls from all walks of life could dress well.

Enjoying the Cold Weather

180 x 180mm Acrylic on Canvas Board

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

AVAILABLE in South Africa from January 2011

Price R400 + R50 Postage and Packaging

America in the Twenties saw a lot of affluence, with lots of money made in new ventures and even some of it even through gambling. I quote from The Great Gatsby again:

'She's got an indiscreet voice' I remarked. 'It's full of ' - I hesitated.

'Her voice is full of money', he said suddenly.

That was it. I'd never understood it before. It was full of money - that was the inexhaustible charm that rose and fell in it, the jingle of it, the cymbals' song of it.....High in a white palace the king's daughter, the golden girl..... (F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby)

How well he writes. I like it when one knows a story by heart through constant reading and watching films. It is then, on re-reading it, that little gems like this are found.

I tidied my paintbox, and found this lovely colour 'Permanent Magenta' by W&N, hidden in there. How well it matches the violets and purples I have been using in this range so far.

A Little Light Rain

180 x 180mm (18 x 18 cm)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

SOLD

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

Although I devote some of this blog to the Twenties, a period that often had very adverse publicity, I like to show the sweetness and innocence of the period and the feminine love of fashion. F.Scott Fitzgerald spoke about "the freshness of many dresses" That love for lots of fashions was always part of womenhood and it is still there today.

Parks and delivery bicycles are so Parisian! I hope you like this belle with her little umbrella strolling outside on a wonderful crisp morning.

The Cloche Hat

180 x 180mm (18 x 18 cm)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

SOLD

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

The bell-shaped cloche hat was first designed in France by Caroline Reboux around 1908. It was a development of the dowdy Victorian bonnet. Soon a truly small and fashionable hat appeared in the twenties and became all the rage. It was made of soft felt and fitted over cropped hair to give a small head shape. The shape contributed to the new slimmer lines of clothing during the Twenties.

The little pointed ribbons on the hats were always a puzzle to me. On Wikipedia I found a fascinating explanation. The ribbons were carrying all sorts of messages: The arrow-shaped pointed ribbon showed that a lady was single but has given her heart to someone. A firm knot was symbol of a firmly married lady, while a bow indicated someone interested in friendships.

The year 2007 saw a revival of the cloche hat on the catwalks and the streets. There are lovely hats available on e-bay, designed by Berti Borell. Let me know if you bought one!!!

Demure in Pink

180 x 180mm (18 x 18 cm)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

SOLD

As I am feeling my way through this new theme, and try to read up about the era of the twenties. I find that in all of Europe and America, everyone tried to keep up with the Flapper times. Garden parties, merry-go-rounds, soft silk dresses in pastel colours gave the times that blend of innocence and seduction. "Demure in Pink" is over-the-top in its sweetness. She sold within minutes of my showing her on Facebook.

Off to the Opera

The French Belles in my paintings are forever living in the Twenties and Thirties. They were caught up in life between two great wars, and everything was out of their control. So they embraced life and tried to make it wonderful.

180 x 180mm (18 x 18 cm)

Acrylic on Canvas Board

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

RESERVED

A String of Beads

180 x 180mm Acrylic on Canvas Board

COPYRIGHT MARIE THERON 2010

Available in South Africa from January 2011

Price R400 + R50 Postage and Packaging

The French, the Twenties and all things vintage are beloved symbols. This set of paintings started as a fun exercise , but it soon became viable as they seem to be popular for dressing rooms, as gifts for lady friends or in clusters of four anywhere.